Stubble Care 101: How to grow and maintain the perfect five-o'clock shadow

by Nicholas Karnaze

Ah yes, the famed five-o’clock shadow. A look that exudes ruggedness and masculinity without the commitment of a full beard. A look that says I’m cool… with a hint of danger.

Growing stubble may sound easy. All a man has to do is simply stop shaving, right? But if you’ve ever grown stubble, you know other factors are at play… mainly how to keep your stubble from turning into a mess of living sandpaper.

Below are our simple tips to grow the perfect five-o’clock shadow while sparing yourself – and your partner – the pain of dry, irritating stubble.

Tools of the trade – What tools do I need?

Before you ditch the razor, you first need to acquire a few tools to ensure your venture into refined ruggedness is an enjoyable one.

Clippers: First and foremost, grab yourself a quality set of electric clippers with adjustable guards. We prefer clippers that plug directly into the wall, since there’s nothing worse than your battery dying mid-trim. While we can put a man on the moon, clipper companies have yet to develop a “rechargeable” trimmer that will reliably hold a charge.

You must also consider the guards themselves. Some clippers have one attached guard that adjusts with a simple twist or slide of a button. We recommend clippers with actual detachable, individual guards.This prevents accidental guard adjustment mid-trim.

Razor: Your neck line and cheeks still require maintenance. For ease of use, we like a trusty electric razor.

Hydrate: A beard-friendly daily facial moisturizer is your best bet at stopping the itch and irritation that comes with growing a solid five-o’clock shadow. It also helps prevent the spread of the dreaded Hipster Herpes.  

Getting started – How long should I let it grow?

Every man’s beard grows at a different rate, but on average facial hair grows roughly one half inch per month. We recommend growing your stubble out to almost beard length and then trimming it back. What is almost beard length? About one quarter of an inch… so give yourself about two weeks before trimming your stubble.

Setting limits – How far down should I let my scruff grow?

Your neckline will make or break the appearance of your five-o’clock shadow, so we recommend drawing the line right above your adam’s apple. That is about as far down as you want your stubble to grow. At the very least, let your stubble grow down past your jawline. he bottom line of your five-o’clock shadow should not pull above your jawline when you smile or open your mouth wide.

Trimming your stubble – What guard should I start with?

If you are not too familiar with your clippers, start twice as long as you think you need. For example, if you think a #1 guard is where you want to be, start first with a #3, then work your way down. You can always go shorter, but if you start too short, you’ll have to wait until it grows back.

Once you find the right guard, trim weekly.

Grooming – How do I keep my stubble soft and itch free?

stubble + ‘stache was born out of necessity. I started growing my beard out in honor of a fallen Marine brother. Within a week my stubble was itchy, dry, and all-around annoying. In my search for a daily facial moisturizer that also reduced facial hair itch and softened scruff, I found nothing, and from that need, Hydrate: Daily Facial + Beard Moisturizer was born.

Your stubble itches for two main reasons:

1. When you shave, your whiskers are cut in a manner resulting in a sharp edge. As your whiskers grow out, those sharp edges dig into your skin, causing itch and irritation.
2. As your scruff grows, the skin beneath becomes dry. Dry skin = itch.

To adequately combat these problems, you need to address both the dry skin and the dry, sharp whiskers. Our hydrating daily facial moisturizer is designed to address every concern/problem men encounter while growing out their scruff. Healthy, well-hydrated skin and soft whiskers. Problems solved.

Keeping it clean – How often do I need to wash my shadow?

We advise men with beards to wash their face fur around twice a week, mainly to preserve the beard’s natural oils. Five-o’clock shadows don’t need to follow this restriction. You should wash your face – and stubble – daily.

What type of cleanser should you use? Any quality facial cleanser will do just fine… but do not use a bar of soap or body wash on your face! And always, always follow it up with a daily moisturizer afterward

Questions? Comments? Drop us a comment below!

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